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Starting
the Seeds: Chilli seeds germinate
at soil temperatures of, 20 - 35C with 30C ideal. Plant the seeds
in a moist, not wet sterile potting medium in pots or flats - 1mm
deep and - 2mm apart and cover with plastic at least 8 and preferably
10 weeks before the last frost date for your area. Water should
be boiled to sterilize it and if it comes from a public water system
should sit for a day prior to sterilization to allow chlorine to
dissolve. Once the seedlings are up, remove the plastic cover, but
do not let the soil dry out. If the seedlings are allowed to wilt,
they may not die, but their growth will be set back. Some of these
seeds take a long time to germinate, but they should do so using
these instructions.
Transplanting:
When the first true leaves (pointed) reach 3/8" to 1/2" wide the
seedlings can be transplanted to bigger pots. Soil temperatures
should be kept to a minimum of 18 C for fastest growth. Most good
potting soils contain some nutrients, but a good non-burning liquid
high phosphorous fertilizer can improve root growth which is most
important at this stage. Apply according to package directions about
once a week. Phosphorous is the middle number between Nitrogen and
Potassium.
Hardening
Off and Setting Out: About two weeks prior to planting in the
garden, begin hardening the plants gradually increasing the amount
of sunlight and wind which they are exposed to. Any good gardening
book will explain more about this procedure. Before transplanting,
be sure that the soil temperature is at least 17 C. If it is not
that high, the blossoms will drop and you'll get leaves, but no
chillis. When transplanting from containers, there will be some
root damage which will slow the plants, so try to be as careful
as possible. If cutworms are a problem in your area, a paper cup
with the bottom cut out, placed around the stem about 1/2" into
the ground should protect the stem. Fertilize with high quality
fertilizer. We like to use a balanced one like 15-15-15.
Growing
and Harvesting: Now that your chilli plants are in the garden,
keep them watered, fertilized, protected from the wind, but getting
lots of sunshine. Keep a lookout for pests. The major pests we've
encountered are aphids, and they can build up rapidly. You can try
organic controls such as liquid dish soap and water, or spray with
a chemical such as Diazanon solution only when you see a build-up.
Remember to follow label directions and don't harvest until the
proper number of days after spraying. The Diazanon label says five
(5) days for chillis. You can harvest your chillis when they are
green, but they're so much prettier if you wait until they turn
to orange or red or yellow or brown.
Growing
Indoors: Chillis are actually perennials, which are usually
grown as annuals. This year we intend to grow our chillis which
we will move indoors for the winter in pots so we won't have to
transplant them in the autumn. Chillis which are moved indoors often
lose their leaves. We now have enough information from other gardeners
to believe that chillis may be deciduous. Some of them grow as big
as trees and maybe they just lose their leaves like oak trees.
GOOD
LUCK AND HAPPY HOT STUFF!
Take a tour of The Great Chilli Farm... click
here
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